Westside

We took the drive west to Waianae to visit my friend Bob and his family. We surfed all day in good conditions. The Hawaiians are true waterman (many live on the beach in small encampments). One guy commandeering a four man outrigger through the inside bowl,another sixty year old riding a ten inch thick home made knee machine with a one inch rope leash,he told me the glass spoons had negative buoyancy(not good for Makaha). Bob told me Kenny rips when it's big. There were several stand up boards,again guys ripping into the shorebreak. I scored some great waves, but not the quantity.The lineup was mellow,but respect was the key. Many waves I was in position for I needed to hit the brakes to allow the guys their space or straighten out. A great day of surfing though.